Pet Safety Tips
PET FIRST AID
Many pets' lives are compromised because
their owners didn't know what to do in common pet emergencies.
The next several articles will be devoted to pet first aid.
POISONING
Although dogs and cats have a good sense
what they can and cannot ingest, accidents do happen. Some common
pet poisons include the swallowing of very common household items
such as weed killers, ammonia, scouring powder, bleach, insecticides,
and also a variety of indoor and outdoor plants, and spoiled food.
Some signs of poisoning include vomiting,
diarrhea, nervousness, difficulty breathing, and change in pupil
size. Your pet may even stumble, go into convulsions, or become
unconscious.
Do not try to make your pet vomit. Many
times this can make the situation worse, as some poisons actually
cause as much damage coming up as they do going down. Comfort
your pet and make it feel secure, and immediately take it to a
veterinarian. If you know what your pet ingested, take a sample
of it to the veterinarian to help determine proper treatment.
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DROWNING
Even though dogs and cats are excellent
swimmers, pets should never be forced to swim. Dogs and cats can
drown if they try to swim too far by becoming exhausted in the
water.
Should your pet fall into water by accident,
some symptoms of drowning are: gurgling noises, gasping for breath,
clawing wildly, or gagging - even if the pet is already out of
the water.
To resuscitate your pet, place him on
a flat surface, open his mouth, pull the tongue forward, and clear
away any debris in his mouth. If he's still in distress, hold
him by his hind legs and gently swing him back and forth in an
attempt to clear the water from his lungs and stomach. If the
pet is too large to lift, place him on his side and press upward
on his midsection or abdomen. If necessary, perform the Heimlich
maneuver and take him to a veterinary hospital.
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BROKEN
BONES
Cats and dogs, like people, sometimes
fall the wrong way, or become victim to an array of accidents
resulting in broken bones. If your pet is found with any broken
bones, immobilize the pet by holding him still. Do not attempt
to apply a splint or set the bone - you may actually do more damage.
Place the pet on a stretcher (one can easily be made by using
a board, a car floor mat, or a folded blanket). Be careful not
to twist the body or spine, and take him to a vet immediately.
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CHOKING
Rarely do cats or dogs choke, but on
occasion they can put more into their mouths than they can swallow.
A choking pet may shake his head, paw at his mouth, salivate,
or make choking sounds.
To help your pet, open the animal's mouth and if you see the object,
remove it. If you cannot remove the object and the pet is breathing,
take him to the veterinarian immediately. If the pet is not breathing
and you cannot find what is obstructing his air passage, apply
the Heimlich maneuver to dislodge the object.
To do this, hold your pet against you and clasp your hands around
his upper abdomen. If this isn't possible, place your pet on his
side on the floor or table. Then place one of your hands on top
of the other. Your bottom hand should be just below his rib cage,
on the midline of his abdomen. Push or lift upward to dislodge
the object. The pressure you apply depends on the animal's size
- a large pet requires more pressure than a kitten or puppy.
If another person is with you, ask him/her to open the animal's
mouth while you hold the tongue down and remove the object. After
it has been removed, take the pet to the veterinarian who can
examine him for any resulting complications.
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ELECTRICAL
SHOCK
Sometimes pets chew on things they shouldn't.
Of particular concern are electrical cords, and pets should be
taught to keep away from them. However, accidents happen and some
pets can suffer electrical shock.
Never try to pull your pet out of danger; you will be putting
your own life at risk. First, pull the plug or turn off the electric
power. Then gently free the animal of the cord (or outlet). Wrap
your pet in a towel or blanket to keep him warm and prevent possible
shock. Then take him to the vet at once.
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WOUNDS
Pets have been known to fall victim to
a variety of accidents resulting in open wounds which can be fatal
if not cared for properly. If your pet is bleeding, apply a pressure
bandage and rush him to a hospital.
If you see spurts of blood, this indicates that a blood vessel
has been severed. In this case, apply direct pressure to the wound
to prevent excess blood loss. Press your fingers hard against
the wound to control the bleeding (use a handkerchief, corner
of your clothing, a leaf, or even your bare fingers as a last
resort). Keep the pressure on until your pet is in the hands of
a veterinarian.
Even if your pet's wound seems minor and the bleeding has stopped,
take him to the veterinarian for antibiotics to prevent possible
infection.
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HEATSTROKE
When the temperatures rise, your pet's
body temperature will also rise. Even ten minutes in a car on
a hot day could be fatal to your pet. Temperatures in a car could
reach 160 degrees within minutes, causing your pet to suffer heat
stroke and possibly causing permanent brain damage. Sometimes
shady spots (like under a tree) aren't even cool enough for your
pet and he may suffer heat exhaustion.
Signs of heatstroke include panting, gasping, loss of mobility
(the animal may stagger and stumble about), weakness, and finally
collapse.
The pet's body temperature must be brought back to normal by GRADUALLY
cooling the body. Do not immerse a pet into cold water because
he may go into shock. Place the pet on his side and bathe his
body with warm water at first, then switch to cooler water. Finally,
apply ice packs to his head and neck. When he is cooler and breathing
normally, take him to a veterinarian.
When temperatures fluctuate to the extreme (whether hot or cold),
it's best to keep pets comfortable indoors with regulated temperature.
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Cold
Weather Stress
You might think dogs and cats would suffer
most when temperatures drop below freezing, but it's cool, wet
weather like what occurs in the fall that causes the most stress,
according to Steve Jones, an animal expert for the Arkansas Cooperative
Extension Service.
Outdoor pets, including horses, are most
likely to suffer hypothermia when temperatures are in the upper
30s or lower 40s, it's raining or drizzling and the wind is blowing.
If animals are in good health and they
can escape the wind, they can survive cold weather. When they
become chilled, literally to the bone, their body's heat mechanisms
can't overcome the elements.
To remain healthy, outside pets need
proper nutrition, regular vaccinations, deworming, and shelter
and water.
Your pets need shelter during cold weather.
It doesn't have to be fancy, just a windbreak and a place where
they can stay dry.
It's very important that your pets always
have fresh, clean water. Make sure the water isn't frozen or that
it's so cold that it can drive down the animal's body temperature.
It helps to place water containers in the sun so they can receive
solar heating.
Horses are often neglected during cold
weather. The most common form of neglect is inadequate nutrition.
You may see green plants out in the pasture and think that's enough,
while in reality the horse isn't getting enough nutrition to even
meet its maintenance requirements.
Horses need plenty of high quality hay.
Hay generates more body heat than grass, and dry hay generates
even more body heat than grains.
Horses also need a windbreak and access
to water. For More information about the wintertime care of pets,
contact your veterinarian.
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SHOCK
A pet may experience shock resulting
from an injury, heat exhaustion, heatstroke, or illness. Symptoms
of shock include panting, rapid breathing, weakness, pale or gray
colored gums, coldness, and possibly even unconsciousness.
It's very important to keep the pet warm. Wrap the pet in a blanket
or towel and take him to the hospital. If your pet has gone into
shock as a result of heat exhaustion, wrap him loosely in a towel
after his body has been cooled.
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LEAVING YOUR PET IN A PARKED VEHICLE CAN BE DEADLY
IF EMERGENCY
CARE IS NOT GIVEN, YOUR PET COULD DIE!
Even ten minutes could be too long for
a pet left in the car on a hot day. By then, the temperature inside
the car could reach 160 degrees. That's hot enough to cause a
dog or cat to suffer heat stroke, and -- within moments -- sustain
permanent brain damage.
A brief stop at the store could stretch
to 15 minutes before you know it. That mistake could cost your
pet his life. Leaving the windows cracked will not cool the car
enough t protect your pet.
Of course your dog would like to go everywhere
with you, but when the weather turns warm, it's best to park your
pet at home.
If a pet is overcome by heat exhaustion,
you can give immediate first aid by slowly dousing the pet with
cool water to bring his body temperature down.
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HOW TO KEEP YOUR PET COOL IN HOT WEATHER
While you're cool indoors, think about
your pets. Are they cool and comfortable too, or are their lives
in danger?
A dog's or cat's normal temperature is
at least five degrees higher than a humans. If they're confined
in a yard or dog run, with no way to escape from the heat, they
may become victims of heat stroke, which can be fatal.
Here are some hot weather pet care tips:
1) Water to prevent dehydration: Plenty of clean, cool drinking water is a must
at all times.
2) Protection from the sun: If your pet must stay in the yard, instead of
the cool indoors, be sure he has adequate shade and ventilation.
3) Park your pet at home:
Never leave your pet in
a parked car, not even for five minutes. It could cost him his
life. The temperature in a parked car can soar to 160 degrees
within minutes, even with the windows left slightly open.
4) Emergency Care:If a pet is overcome by heat (detected by excessive
panting, is heavily salivating, and/or immobile) immerse him slowly
in cool water to lower his body temperature, then contact a veterinarian.
Never immerse a pet in ice cold water, it may cause him to go
into shock.
5) Keep Pets Groomed: Clip long or matted coats short to help your
pet stay cool, but remember that pets, like people, can get sunburned
too and coats should not be TOO short.
6) Health Check: Carefully go over your pet's body at least once
a week to check for fleas, ear mites and tiny bumps or cuts. Bring
your pet to the vet for a summer check-up and use a good flea
and tick repellent recommended by your vet.
7) Fleas: Fleas need to be attacked on three fronts: on
the pet, in the home and in the yard.
8) Exercise: Exercise pets in the morning or evening when
it's cooler.
9 Identification: With the hotter weather, families and their
pets are outside more often, increasing the chances of a pet getting
lost. Make sure your pets always wear proper identification.
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LIVING
WITH URBAN WILDLIFE
Many wildlife species can't survive in
close proximity to humans, but others have learned to adapt to
man's encroachment on their territory and live among us as secretive,
usually unseen neighbors. Some people object to this "intrusion"
forgetting that wildlife plays an important role in our environment
and that it is, after all, we who are the intruders.
Peaceful co-existence with our wild neighbors is most successfully
achieved by allowing these animals their niche in the urban environment
while taking measures to prevent them from becoming a nuisance.
The following do's and don'ts will help prevent problems before
they arise.
DO'S
DO:
Tightly screen all access holed into buildings. Vents, gables,
chimneys, eaves, and pipes are all potential entryways for wildlife
to set up residence in the attic or under the home.
DO: Secure trash in sturdy plastic or metal cans with tight
fitting lids. If necessary, tie the lids down so they won't become
dislodged if the can is tipped over. Also, wait until the morning
of pick-up to put trash out.
DO: Eliminate any food source which may attract wildlife
such as fallen fruit or pet food left unattended.
DO: Construct fences and walls high enough to exclude smaller
animals. Generally coyotes won't scale a fence higher than 6 feet
and an 8 foot fence will discourage most deer. Installing extenders,
which angle outward, to the top of each post and running 2 or
3 strands of wire along the extenders will help ensure that these
animals don't pass over the top. To stop animals from digging
under a fence attach chicken wire to the bottom and bury it at
least 6 inches deep and 6 inches outward, parallel to the ground.
Burying cinder blocks around the bottom of a fence will also discourage
digging.
DO: Clear brush, dense ground cover, wood piles, and garden
debris where rodents may be living. Reducing the rodent population
will eliminate an attractive food source for coyotes and snakes.
DO: Protect caged animals such as chickens and rabbits.
A hutch which stands above ground should have a solid bottom to
prevent your pet from becoming easy prey for a coyote or raccoon.
Chicken coops must be extremely secure to prevent predators from
climbing over or digging under the structure. Also, remember the
dexterous hands of raccoons can undo many latches.
DON'TS
DON'T:
Feed wildlife. It will lure animals from the surrounding hillsides
in overwhelming numbers leaving them dependent on you for food
and at risk from other humans who may harm them.
DON'T: Corner or try to catch a wild animal. If you come
across a wild animal, keep children and pets at a safe distance
and leave it alone. Odds are it wants to get away from you as
badly as you want it to leave. If the animal appears injured,
call your local animal control agency for assistance.
DON'T: Allow pets to roam, especially at night. They may
never return.
DON'T: Set out poison bait. More than likely the wrong
animal will consume it or the dead poisoned animal will be eaten
by a non-target animal, such as a hawk or your dog or cat, and
in turn be poisoned themselves. Also, a poisoned animal will frequently
die under a building or some other inaccessible area leaving you
with an unremovable smelly carcass.
DON'T: Seal an entrance hole in a building or the opening
to a den site unless you are certain the animals living there
are not present. Make a tracking patch by spreading a thick layer
of flour in front of the entrance. When you see pawprints leading
away from the opening it is usually safe to seal the entrance.
Most animals leave their dens at dusk to search for food. If,
however, you cannot catch the animal out of its den, try driving
it our by placing ammonia soaked rags into the nesting site; again,
make a tracking patch and wait. If necessary, re-soak the rags
twice daily. If you are uncertain of the number of animals in
the nesting site, try hanging a piece of hardware cloth larger
than the opening on the outside. The animals can then swing the
hardware cloth outward to escape, but cannot re-enter. NEVER seal
an entrance during the breeding season (usually March - June);
you may trap infant wildlife too young to escape.
DON'T: Try to smoke out an animal which is living in your
chimney. It can easily be overcome by smoke and fall into the
fire. Try placing a dish of ammonia in the base of the chimney
and open the damper. The fumes should force the animal out the
top. If an animal is trapped in your chimney, place a thick rope
into the chimney, far enough to reach the animal, secure it at
the top and leave. Most animals will scale the rope and escape.
To prevent animals from getting into the chimney in the first
place, install a wire mesh cap over the top.
OTHER TIPS
Trapping and relocating animals is generally
not recommended for several reasons. Removing a nuisance animal
is only a temporary solution; others will soon move in from surrounding
areas to take its place. In some cases it is illegal to trap animals
such as raccoons and skunks, because they are furbearers, and
protected by law. Animals can only be relocated to specific release
sites where studies have shown the area able to support newcomers.
Releasing animals into unapproved areas causes problems for the
released animal as well as the existing population. For more information
about trapping and relocating animals in your area contact your
local animal control agency.
Many animals do not like walking on an unfamiliar surface. Laying
chicken wire or plastic sheeting on the ground may discourage
an animal from passing through an area where it is unwelcome.
To assist an animal which has become trapped in a window well,
lean a rough branch thick enough to support the animal's weight
into the window well. The animal can then use it to climb out.
To help prevent damage to roofs by wildlife avoid planting creeping
vines near walls and keep tree branches trimmed away from buildings.
This will help eliminate an animal's access to the roof. Also,
tacking sheet metal around trees or on walls will keep animals
from getting the footing they need to climb. The sheet metal should
be at least 2 feet wide and attached about 3 feet above ground
level.
Ornamental fish ponds can be protected from raccoons by attaching
wire mesh (preferably a type that won't rust) horizontally around
the circumference of the pond. It should be at least one foot
wide and submerged about 2 to 6 inches. Raccoons cannot reach
over the mesh and because it is unstable are unlikely to try standing
on it.
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