Here are some handy tips and information for people who are considering adopting a pet, as well as those who already have one.

Click on the article that you are interested in:

• Heartworms-Both Dog And Cat
• The Five Best Things You Can Do For Your Pet
• Cat Health Tips
• Myths VS Facts On Spaying And Neutering
• Tips On Adopting A new Pet
• Barking
• Bite-Proofing Your Dog
• Before You Buy A Dog-Think!
• What You Should Know About Outside Dogs
• What To Do If Your Pet Gets Lost

Heartworms are every dog or cat owner's business anymore. In most parts of the country, it is an almost inevitable fact that if you have a dog, that dog will get heartworms if not given preventative treatment. Even if treated, periodic testing should be done, especially if the medicine is not administered precisely. Indoor pets are also at risk unless you never have a mosquito get into the house.

• Symptoms in Dogs/Treatment for Dogs
  
• Symptons in Cats/Treatment for Cats

Heartworms were first identified in the United States in 1856 and occurred most frequently on the seacoast in the southeastern United States. In recent years, heartworm disease has been found throughout the United States.

The actual number of infected dogs and cats in the United States is unknown. The infection rate in cats is probably much lower than that of dogs since cats are not an ideal host for Dirofilaria immitis, the heartworm.

Heartworms belong to the same class of worms as roundworms. In fact, they look a bit like roundworms, but that's where the similarity ends. Heartworms spend their adult life in the right side of the heart and the large blood vessels connecting the heart to the lungs. Heartworms are found in dogs, cats and ferrets. They also occur in wild animals such as California sea lions and black bears.

Adult heartworms lay very tiny larvae called microfilariae. The microfilariae can live up to three years in the dog's blood stream, but usually only a month in cats. These microfilariae enter a mosquito when it sucks blood from an infected animal. In 2-3 weeks the microfilariae develop into larger larvae in the mosquito and migrate to the mosquito's mouth. There are more than 60 different species of mosquitoes that can transmit heartworms.

When the mosquito bites another animal, the larvae enter the animal's skin where they live for 3 months and grow to a size of 3 inches. The larvae then migrate to the heart where they grow into adults, sometimes reaching a length of 14 inches. The time from when an animal was bitten until adult heartworms develop and lay microfilariae is about 6 months.

Severely infected dogs can have up to several hundred heartworms in their hearts and vessels. Infected cats, on the other hand, usually have only 1-4 worms, and the worms tend to live only one or two years. Adult worms in dogs usually live up to 5 years.

Many times infected cats will not have microfilariae in their blood streams, and if they do, the microfilariae usually live only one month. On the other hand, 30-80% of dogs have microfilariae, and the microfilariae can live up to 2 years.

The adult worms can obstruct the different chambers of the heart and the various large blood vessels leading to and from the heart and lungs. First, the right pumping chamber (ventricle) of the heart and the large pulmonary artery leading from it to the lungs becomes enlarged as the worms take up space. If worms die, they may follow the flow of blood into smaller vessels in the lung and obstruct those vessels. In severe infections, the worms can also block the large vein (vena cava) bringing blood to the right side of the heart. As the blood backs up, the liver becomes enlarged and damaged.

Back to Top

Dogs with heartworm infections may show decreased appetite, loss of weight and listlessness. Often the first sign of the disease is a cough. Animals with heartworm disease will start to show lack of endurance during exercise. Some will accumulate fluid in their abdomen that makes them look pot-bellied. In rare situations in which animals have many adult worms, the animals may die of sudden heart failure.

Until recently, the only effective adulticide (drug to kill the adults) for dogs was the drug, thiacetarsamide sodium (Caparsolate®), which contains arsenic. It has to be given in the vein through a catheter. If any drug gets outside of the vein, severe tissue damage could occur. Some animals become quite ill from this drug, and therapy sometimes has to be stopped. Almost all animals have to be hospitalized for the several days of treatment.

Recently the drug, melarsomine (Immiticide®), was developed. It too contains arsenic but can be given deep in the muscles of the back instead of intravenously. It is less likely to cause side effects than thiacetarsamide and is more effective. The treatment protocol depends on the severity of infection. Dogs with mild cases are treated once daily for two days. For more severe infections, the dog is given one injection, then thirty days later is treated once daily for two days. Four months after the treatment, the dog should be tested for microfilariae using the antigen test. Some animals may need to undergo a second round of injections at that time. It is recommended that dogs also be on a monthly heartworm preventative during the treatment.

Regardless of which drug is used, when the adult heartworms die, they can obstruct blood vessels to the lungs (these are called pulmonary embolisms). If only a small part of the lung is involved, there may be no clinical signs. However, if the vessels to a large portion of the lung, or a small area of an already diseased lung are blocked, severe signs may result. These include fever, cough, coughing up blood and even heart failure. Because of the risk of these embolisms, any dog being treated with an adulticide must be kept very quiet during treatment and for 2-4 weeks thereafter.

In very severe infestations, adult worms are removed from the heart surgically.

Back to Top

Signs of heartworm disease in cats are similar to those in dogs: decreased appetite, loss of weight, and listlessness. You may also see vomiting, blindness and seizures. In some cases, death can occur. On the other hand, some infected cats show no signs at all.

Before any treatment for heartworm infection in a cat is started, it must be verified that the cat actually has an active infection. Because of the difficulty in interpreting test results in cats, as described above, radiographs (x-rays) and special diagnostic tests of the heart are performed to help confirm the diagnosis. Unlike dogs, enlarged pulmonary arteries are usually NOT seen in cats with heartworm disease.

If a cat has a confirmed heartworm infection, but is not showing marked signs of the disease, it is generally recommended that no treatment be given. Such cases can be monitored every 6 months through radiographs. The respiratory signs in these cats often respond to low doses of prednisone. This drug has no direct affect on the heartworms, it just helps reduce the signs of disease.

Generally, treatment is only attempted in cats that have clinical signs that do not respond to prednisone or other supportive measures. The only approved treatment for heartworm disease in cats is the arsenic-containing drug, thiacetarsamide sodium (Caparsolate®). As in dogs, it has to be given in the vein through a catheter. If any drug gets outside of the vein, severe tissue damage could occur. Some cats become quite ill from this drug, and therapy sometimes has to be stopped. Most cats have to be hospitalized for the several days of treatment.

Treatment in cats is even riskier than in dogs. The possibility of a pulmonary embolism (obstruction of the vessels to the lung by dead worms) is much greater in cats. This complication can be expected in 1/3 of the cats treated.

Again, the signs of an embolism include fever, cough, coughing up blood and even heart failure. Like dogs, cats treated with Caparsolate® must be kept very quiet during the treatment and for 2-4 weeks thereafter. Follow-up testing after treatment should be performed.

Surgical removal of heartworms from some cats may be necessary.

Back to Top

The Five Best Things You Can Do For Your Pet

Everyone who gets a new dog or cat has the intention of doing what is best for their new friend. Pets get the best food, the best collar or the best toy. The five best things that you can do for your pet, however, may not be quite as easy as going to the pet shop and buying a toy, but they are profoundly more important to his health, his longevity and his happiness.

First, establish a relationship with a veterinarian. Your veterinarian is trained to look at your pet and notice potential problems. Generally, illnesses are easier to treat if caught early. Once you've decided on your veterinarian, visit him or her often, because your pet won't tell you when it doesn't feel well.

Second, help your veterinarian keep your pet's vaccinations current. We live in a world that is teeming with bacteria and viruses which cause diseases in animals. While vaccinations are not a guarantee that your pet won't get a communicable disease, no vaccinations are a guarantee that it will.

Third, spay or neuter you pet. Sterilization helps make pets healthier, longer lived and more socialized. Contrary to historical beliefs, pets do not need to reproduce. It is a national disgrace that 15 million unwanted pets are destroyed in the United States each year. Sterilization also does not make animals fat - too much food and too little exercise do.

Fourth, keep your dog in his fenced backyard or on a leash and keep your cat in the house. No animal I have ever treated has been hit by a car inside his backyard or in its house. Pets kept there do not end up being destroyed in animal shelters. Pets kept there are less likely to get diseases. Pets kept there are much more likely to cost you less money in veterinary bills. Pets kept there live longer.

Finally, take your dog to an obedience class and train it yourself under the supervision of an experienced dog trainer. Your dog will like you better, you will like your dog better, and your neighbors will like both of you better. Cats do not appreciate obedience training, but you can put a pillow in a nice sunny spot in your living room and get a pleasant relationship started.

Back to Top

Cat Health Tips

Cats don't know that you or your vet have the power to make them feel better. They frequently accept discomfort in their bodies as they would accept a change in the weather. You are in the best position to notice changes in your cat's behavior and notice when something is out of the ordinary. It is helpful to know which symptoms are normal and which may indicate a need for medical attention. Sometimes little changes in your cat may be indicative of something more serious.

This is usually not serious unless it persists. The cause may be as simple as the cat eating too fast or too much or may be caused by a hair ball. When cats groom themselves, they can swallow hair. Vomiting a hair ball is a good thing, although you may not think so as you are cleaning it off the carpet. Hair balls can lodge in bends of the intestinal tract, and can sometimes cause problems because of this. So, for a cat to rid himself of the problem by vomiting the hair ball is normal. If vomiting persists, call your vet and report the situation.

As with vomiting, coughing and sneezing may be indicative of something serious if they persist. On the other hand,they may simply be due to a temporary irritation or to something in the environment. It can helpful for you to notice when and how long these symptoms occur. Do they happen after eating, when the cat first wakes up, etc. This information can be helpful to your vet.

Again, this can be normal unless it persists. Cats don't eat the same amount of food every day. Don't panic if your cat walks away from his bowl without eating. Serving a very small amount of food is a good way to observe just how much your cat is eating. If you give your cat a large serving of food, it may hard to tell whether he ate any of it by looking at how much is left. If you start out with a small amount, you can more easily observe how much is left.

It's pretty obvious that there is something irritating or itching your cat. It's not so obvious what the cause might be. Fleas and ticks can be seen if you look closely. Other causes may not be visible or may not be apparent to the untrained eye. Sometimes cats scratch their ears with their back claws so much that they cause bleeding. The cause may be ear mites, an ear infection, or a buildup of wax in the ears that is causing an itching sensation, or some other cause. Your vet can diagnose the cause and provide you with medicine to treat the problem if necessary. Some parasites that make your cat itch also lay eggs that will hatch in the future and make your cat itch some more. So, be sure to follow your vet's instructions thoroughly in order to resolve the problem and prevent it from recurring.

If you see a buildup of waxy dirt on your cat's back claws, this may be due to the cat scratching at his ears. The wax is too thick for the cat to lick off his claws, so it builds up. If not cleaned, it could cause an infection or could reinfect his ears.

Most cats have an instinctive urge to bury their urine. In the wild, the odor of urine can attract predators. Because of this, cats usually urinate in an area that is not close to where they eat or sleep. If you put the cat's litter box too close to the food bowl the cat may search for a more acceptable place to urinate. Moving the litter box may solve this problem.

Cats also have a reputation for cleanliness and must depend on you to keep their litter box clean. They don't like to stand on old, wet litter; if you are not doing your part in keeping the litter box clean your cat may look for another place that's cleaner.

A cat that has been using the litter box for years may suddenly stop. There are numerous possible causes for this and you will need to observe your cat to try to determine what the problem may be. Old cats may have a weak bladder or arthritis and may not be able to make it to the litter box or can not step over the side of the box. You might try using more than one litter box in the house. Cutting an opening in the side of the box will help those old cats who have trouble stepping over the side.

If a cat has a physical problem that causes any pain or discomfort in urinating, he may associate the box with the cause of the discomfort and may look for another place which he thinks will be more comfortable. If you see blood in your cat's urine, contact your vet immediately.

Changes in litter box habits can also be caused by emotional problems. Cats don't reason things out the same way humans do. They are often controlled by fears that would seem irrational to us. They are also creatures of habit and like things to be the same today as they were yesterday. Cats can usually adapt to change over time but their initial reaction is usually not a positive one. For example, the introduction of a new pet into the household may be traumatic to a cat.

Back to Top

Myths VS Facts On Spaying And Neutering

Myth:
My male pet doesn't need to get altered because he can't give birth.
Fact:
As true as it is for humans, "it takes two to tango!" And, while a female cat or dog can only have one litter at a time, a male can impregnate many females each day.

Myth:
I refuse to alter my pet because it will change his/her personality.
Fact:
Altering a pet does not affect his/her personality; however, the behavior changes are certainly positive ones. Neutered male cats tend to reduce territorial spraying, and neutered dogs and cats fight less and are less likely to stray from home in search of a mate. Spayed females don't go into heat. (Ever see a female in heat jump through a screen door looking for a male companion? It can be quite ugly and expensive.)

Myth (excuse):
I want my children to see the miracle of birth.
Fact (reality):
To put it bluntly, have you considered also showing them the reality of death? There are many ways of showing children the beauty of reproduction without adding to the pet overpopulation crisis. Ever consider visiting your local animal shelter in June, or perhaps reading them a book from the library? And while you're educating, it may be a good idea to explain the vast responsibility of having babies.

Myth:
My pet will not be as protective if he/she is altered.
Fact:
Not true. In fact, your altered pet will remain or become even more protective and loyal without the distraction of wanting to mate spontaneously.

Myth:
It's cruel to take away a pet's ability to procreate.
Fact:
Please do not confuse human sexuality with that of a cat or dog. They don't think about sex; they react to hormonal impulses only.

There are also numerous medical benefits for altered pets. Neutering, for example, decreases or eliminates many of the illnesses that intact males are prone to later in life, such as diseases of the prostate, testicles, and other tissues that are influenced by male hormones. Testicular and perianal gland cancers are the second and third most common tumors in older intact male dogs. A large part of the medical treatment for these cancers includes neutering.

Unneutered male cats like to roam and fight and are a rarity to see over the age of six, as many of them fall victim to cat fights and contract severe debilitating diseases such as feline leukemia and respiratory viruses.

If a female cat or dog is spayed at a young age (particularly before her second heat), her chances of ever developing mammary cancer is greatly reduced. Also, spaying entirely eliminates diseases of the ovaries and uterus, which are a major cause of illness in older female dogs and cats.

Clearly, for a healthier and longer life of a pet, spaying or neutering is a must, and it will help keep veterinary costs down.

Back to Top

Tips On Adopting A new Pet

When the time is right and you feel you're up to the responsibility of owning an animal, there are many things to consider. Where will you look? What breed will you get? How much money do you have to spend on this new addition to the family? SpcaLA offers the following advice to assist in your search for your new best friend:

1) Evaluate your needs - Find out what breed of dog or cat best suits your lifestyle. Are you active? Are you home a lot? Do you have children? Do you work 20 hours a day? These are all things that need to be considered before adopting an animal.

2) Check out your local animal shelter - Many people's first inclination is to go to a pet store; however, shelters have many dogs and cats to choose from in all shapes and sizes. We recommend calling the shelter first to determine what documents you should bring when adopting an animal.

3) Ask shelter staff lots of questions - These are the people that are with the animals every day. Most likely, the shelter staff will be able to determine the animals' personality traits, likes, dislikes, and temperaments. Also, if you're looking for a specific breed or personality type, the shelter staff may be of help.

4) Keep your options open - A pet doesn't have to be a puppy or kitten to be a loyal companion. Older animals have a lot to offer. Often times older dogs are already house-broken and leash-trained and older cats may be litterbox trained.

5) Take your time - It may take awhile to find that perfect pet, so be patient. You may have to visit the shelter a few times before you find the one that's right for you.

6) Make a decision as a family - If this pet will be a family pet, make your family a part of the decision. How does the dog get along with everyone and how does everyone get along with the dog? After all, remember you are choosing an animal to be a member of the family. Your pet may live as long as 16 or 18 years. Are you and your family prepared for such an important commitment?

7) Give your animal some time to adjust - Once you bring your new pet home, remember that he's in a new place and has to learn the lay of the land. Let him wander around and sniff. If there are children in the home, tell them that like a new kid at school, the animal may need a few days to adjust before he's comfortable enough to play. Most importantly, be patient. It may take a few weeks for the animal to feel at home and for his true personality to emerge.

8) Use your shelter as a resource - Most shelters will be happy to offer advice to keep you and your pet together. If your pet is having problems adjusting, call your adoption counselor.

Back To Top

Barking

Barking is a normal canine behavior. Some dogs bark as a demand for attention. Others bark because they are lonely, bored, frustrated or frightened. Dogs will even bark when they are excited or having fun.

Provide your dog with daily routines of play, exercise and training. A reliable routine that your dog can depend upon will help build his confidence and often cure a barking problem. These special times of undivided attention help your dog to contentedly sleep the day away while you are not home. Dogs are social creatures. They need friends and companionship. Take your dog to the same dog park daily or weekly and let him visit and make doggy friends. Let your dog release his barking needs in play. Dogs romping around and playing together tire rapidly and will sleep happily while recovering from a good, healthy play session. Dogs need to bark. Barking is a normal, natural and necessary canine behavior. It is unfair to try to stop the dog from barking altogether.

Many owners are eager to reprimand their dog for barking, but few remember to praise him when he is quiet, whether he was having a little quiet moment on his own initiative, or whether he was instructed to "Be Quiet." Too many owners fall into the trap of forcefully commanding the dog to be quiet, but them saying nothing and virtually ignoring the dog if he obeys. With this approach, training becomes an unpleasant series of punishments, and all the dog learns is not to bark when the owner is around. As a rule of thumb: for each reprimand for barking, there should be as least ten times that the dog is praised for being quiet.

Teach your dog to be quiet on request. When he is barking out of control, gently ask him to please "Be Quiet." If he ignores you and continues barking, immediately shout a very loud, "BE QUIET!" or squirt him in the face with water. After a few repetitions, the dog will get the idea and obey the first gentle request of "Be Quiet," rather than get screamed at or doused with water. As soon as your dog stops barking, instantly praise and reward him.

Gwen Bohnenkamp is author of two publications dealing with dog behavior: Manners for the Modern Dog, and Help! My Dog Has An Attitude! Orders may be placed by phone, fax, or mail.

Back to Top

Bite-Proofing Your Dog

The Humane Society of the United States (HSUS) estimates that between 2 and 3 million dog bites are reported to local authorities each year. Millions more go unreported. Sixty percent of all dog bite victims are children, and the elderly, delivery persons, and letter carriers.

Most dog bites are a result of irresponsible dog ownership. There is not a way to guarantee that your dog will never bite someone. But you can significantly reduce the risk:

SPAY OR NEUTER YOUR PET.
Sterilization will not only reduce aggression but will also decrease a dog's tendency to roam. However, spaying/neutering won't reduce a dog's protectiveness.

TRAIN AND SOCIALIZE YOUR PET.
Set appropriate limits on acceptable behavior. Help your dog become a trustworthy member of your family and community.

TEACH YOUR DOG APPROPRIATE BEHAVIOR.
Don't play aggressive games with your dog such a wrestling, tug of war, or "siccing" your dog on another person. It's essential that your dog recognize you and all the members of your family - including your children - as dominant and not challenge your leadership. Keep your dog restrained and don't let him chase vehicles and risk injury to himself or others.

BE A RESPONSIBLE PET OWNER.
License and vaccinate your dog. For everyone's safety, don't allow him to roam. Make your pet a member of the family. Dogs who spend too much time in the doghouse or tied in the backyard have a much greater chance of developing behavioral problems such as aggression. Dogs who are well socialized are much less likely to bite.

ERR ON THE SAFE SIDE.
If you don't know how your dog will react to a new situation, be cautious. If your dog may panic in crowds, leave him at home. If your dog may overreact to visitors or delivery people, keep him in another room. Help your dog become accustomed to a variety of situations. When a letter carrier or delivery person visits, keep your dog restrained in another room. Don't allow your dog to jump up against your door or bite the mail as it comes through the mail slot. Don't let your child take mail from the letter carrier in the presence of your dog. Your dog's instinct is to "protect" the family.

LOOK FOR WARNING SIGNS.
Pet owners can often recognize their dog's displays of aggression before an attack occurs. A dog may show aggression by disobeying or showing signs of dominance-especially over small children - such as growling or nipping. If your dog ever attacks another animal without provocation, seek professional advice immediately. Proper training can usually eradicate aggressive behavior.

Back to Top

Before You Buy A Dog-Think!

WHERE TO BUY:
Animal shelters, pet stores and breeders have dogs available for adoption. Know that an American Kennel Club (AKC) certified dog only means that he's registered, and does not indicate whether you're getting a good dog, physically or temperamentally. Regardless of where you get your pet, take the pet to your veterinarian immediately for a clean bill of health. Does the animal look well-cared for and healthy? Always socialize with the pet before purchasing to make sure you're getting what you want. Also, make sure that the adopting facility has a pet return policy.

ANIMAL SHELTERS - You'll find an abundance of healthy dogs needing good homes, from pure-breeds to beautiful mixed breeds. Ask the kennel attendant for assistance, as most will know the dogs' temperaments. Many have already been housebroken and trained.

PET STORES & BREEDERS - If you're getting a pure-breed, ask for papers, medical records (including shots), and the puppy's breeding origins. Responsible breeders (check with breed clubs and interview the breeders to make sure they are concerned about the welfare of the puppies and dogs) should be concerned with the betterment of the breed to weed out any hereditary diseases, such as hip dysplasia, blindness and deafness, which are more common in inbred dogs.

COST:
Aside from the initial adoption cost, which varies, consider the pet care fees, such as veterinary care (annual shots, spay/neuter, etc.), food, licensing, collar, leash, identification tags, bowls, flea extermination, etc. Be prepared to spend at least $400 per year on your dog.

TIME:
Do you have the time to spend obedience training, grooming, and daily exercising your dog? Remember that a dog can live 10 - 20 years and will need you daily throughout his lifetime.

TYPE OF DOG:
Consider your lifestyle. Do you have the space in your home to house a Golden Retriever, or would you be more comfortable with a Terrier? You may love a Bearded Collie, but they require daily brushings because of their long hair and perhaps a short-haired breed is better for you. Get a dog breed book to help you select the dog that best suits your living conditions and activity level.

GUARD DOG OR COMPANION:
A dog should be chosen because you want to love and care for him - and the affection you get back will be tenfold. Most dogs will alert you if a "bad person" comes close to your home. If you want to purchase a "guard dog" from a private party/company, ask the city for their business permit and if any complaints have been filed against them. If you want to train your dog as a guard dog, pick a company that will allow you to watch and assist in the training, and check references. Once you have a guard dog, everyone in the family (including the housekeeper and kids) must be able to handle the dog and understand that he may be unpredictable and can be as dangerous as a loaded gun. There is a real liability issue with guard dogs and training must constantly be reinforced.

TRAINING:
Each dog should be obedience trained and know basic commands, such as sit, stay and heel, and be housebroken. Never beat your dog, but teach him with patience and positive reinforcement techniques. Dogs are very social creatures and crave your attention. Socialize them to feel confident and well-adjusted around other dogs and humans. Teach your dog appropriate behavior and don't play aggressive games with your dog such as wrestling, tug of war, or "siccing" your dog on another person. It's important for your dog to know that your family (and kids) are dominant members of your dog's "pack" and not allow your dog to take a leadership role. If you've never owned a dog and need assistance in training, get a professional dog trainer with good references to help.

BE RESPONSIBLE:
License, vaccinate, make sure your dog is spayed or neutered (you'll have a healthier, more obedient dog who will not add to the horrendous pet overpopulation tragedy), obey the leash and "pooper scooper" laws. Also, make sure your pet is a wanted and loved member of your family, and not an outsider. Dogs who spend too much time in the doghouse or tied in the backyard have a greater chance of developing behavioral problems such as aggression.

PREGNANCY & SMALL KIDS:
If you're pregnant, be aware of your dog's jealousy and his need for your affection. It is important to introduce your new baby to your dog SLOWLY, first by introducing the dog to blankets and toys that have the baby's smell on them. Monitor the dog and never leave your baby alone with the dog. If you don't have a dog, research breeds that have good temperaments and are tolerant of children (don't forget that mixed breeds and dogs in humane societies can make great pets too!). Remember that a new dog is like having another infant in the home - requiring extra training, only compounded if you decide on purchasing a puppy.

Back to Top

What You Should Know About Outside Dogs
By Diane Davis

Those of us who work in the animal welfare field have difficulty understanding the concept of the "outside dog."

When our staff conduct adoption interviews, potential owners are reminded that dogs are companions, "pack" animals that crave the attention of their owners, who have in these modern times, replaced the old "ancestral" pack. Out staff stress to prospective owners that dogs need daily socialization and want to be part of your family's daily activities, even something as mundane as sitting in front of the television of laying by the side of a youngster struggling with his math homework.

But there are still those who say they want their pet to spend the majority of its time outdoors. This begs the question we all must ask ourselves every time it comes up...THEN WHY HAVE A DOG AT ALL?

For those believing that a dog spending most of its life outdoors will be more protective of the home, you're wrong! Outside dogs, according to those with experience in the animal welfare field, may become so lonely and isolated that instead of barking at a stranger, they may approach the person for attention and a few pats on the head, since they are not receiving any from their family! So in the end, the whole idea of your outside dog protecting you better is undermined by the animal's need for socialization with humans.

If circumstances should cause the outside dog owner to be forced to bring the animal in, then that animal may create a variety of problems, not being used to the "rules of behavior" that apply to the indoors. All housebreaking may have been lost, the animal may urinate on furniture to mark territory or may be so stressed by the change that it acts overly exuberant and knocks over things in an attempt to romp and play - something it has been starved for since it has lead the "outside life." Ultimately, the situation will force the owner to kick the dog out once more.

People wonder why dogs chained to tied outdoors bark so much. The answer is pretty simple. They are bored and lonely. That's why outside dogs dig up the yard. What else do you expect them to do?

When owners turn in "outside dogs" to our animal shelter, adopting them is always difficult. Some are so stressed by being in an "indoor" situation, they may act aggressively, refuse to walk on cement floors, show fear of leashes or display other behaviors that cannot be overcome in a shelter atmosphere. Humane societies prefer not to adopt out these unfortunate dogs to homes where they will again be subjected to a life of loneliness, boredom and lack of attention.

Sentencing a dog to a life outdoors, without attention and companionship from humans, is nothing short of cruel. If you don't want to deal with training a dog, caring for its coat, dealing with fleas, shedding hair or getting home in time to feed it and let it out to relieve itself, then perhaps a dog is not for you!

If you obtain a dog, or a cat for that matter, with the intention of making it live outside, you have committed a major error. You have already decided that there will be no great closeness between you and the animal, no matter how many times you say you'll go outside to visit with it. Many adopters start out with the best intentions, but send a dog to live the outside life because they lack the time or desire to work with it to teach it how to live indoors as s well-behaved member of your family.

Cruelty doesn't just come in the form of outright abuse and neglect...it can be as simple as ignoring an animal that craves only you love and attention.

If you need information about how to train your dog, call your humane society (or ask your veterinarian). We're here to help. There is almost always an answer to just about any dog behavior problem, if you are willing to put in a little effort.

(printed from Lollypop News of The Humane Society of Rochester & Monroe County, NY)

Back to Top

What To Do If Your Pet Gets Lost

Losing your pet can be a terrifying experience. Once you realize your pet is lost, don't waste any time in starting your search! Use the suggestions below to help you look for your pet and read the tips on prevention to help guard against future losses.

Take the time to walk around as you call your pet. Carry some food to lure your pet out from a hiding place. Ask everyone if they have seen your pet. Carry a pet photo. Make sure that everyone knows your pet is missing. A small reward will motivate people in their search. Drive around your neighborhood at night. Lost pets will hide during the day. They may even recognize the sound of your car.

Be sure to check for your pet at least once every two days. Contact the local Humane Society. They will be more than willing to assist you in helping you to find your pet. Keep trying. Some people will hold a lost pet at their house for up to several weeks before turning it in to an animal shelter. Don't give up! Some animals are found months after being lost!

Use the information below to help you locate other animal shelters and services in your area.

Place posters in shopping centers, on telephone poles, in vet offices, in pet stores, in grooming parlors and with the animal shelters in your area. Including your pet's photo will attract attention to your poster. Be sure to include your pet's name, a phone number (day and evening), a good description of your pet, and an offer for a reward. For safety purposes, do not post your address. Make sure the posters that you post outside buildings are protected from the destructive effects of weather. Laminating the outside posters will keep them water-proof.

Place ads in your local newspapers.  Read the "found" ads and respond to anything that might possibly resemble your pet. Remember, a white animal may easily turn into a gray or tan color after being outdoors for a few days!

Check with your local radio station for lost and found services.  Check with your local cable television stations.

Always keep your pets indoors. Make sure that your pet wears current identification tags, with your address and phone number. Have recent photos of your pet handy. Have written descriptions of your pet (size, color, weight, markings). If someone else is caring for your pet in your absence, leave them this information.

If you lose your pet, visit each shelter in your area at least once every two days. Many shelters hold strays only three days as required by law. Remember to always keep identification tags on your pet. Most shelters will hold identified pets at least ten days. Having your pet microchipped will also help your pet since all local shelters scan each stray animal to check for microchip identification!

Back to Top